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Parc Monceau: An English Garden in Paris
Today is the day! The first day of the year where the sun’s strength has warmed enough to remove any residual chill in the air and to release a glorious, earthy scent from the garden. Spring has definitely arrived. And it’s the perfect day to take a stroll through a beautiful landscape. So I thought we would pay a visit to another of Paris’ stunning jardins. And you may be surprised to learn that this one, Parc Monceau, is an English garden. A Royal Commission I first approached Parc Monceau from one of the Art Nouveau metro entrances that I love so much. And from the moment I saw its…
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Marie-Antoinette’s Versailles Hamlet
I recently watched Sophia Coppola’s stunning version of the life of Marie-Antoinette, France’s iconic but ill-fated queen. And while enjoying this contemporary trip into a lavish piece of French history, I had the opportunity to envisage how this Austrian-born queen may have spent her time in the garden that she had built as a personal oasis. Marie-Antoinette’s Versailles Hamlet afforded her a humble retreat from the opulence and grandeur of the Versailles Chateau. The Queen’s House I first visited le Hameau de la Reine in the spring of 2016 and I must admit, I was disappointed. For metal scaffolding covered the Queen’s House that I had been so looking forward…
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A Row Through Paris: La Traversée de Paris en Aviron
It was a cool, clear September morning as over a thousand rowers slipped their rowing sculls into the Seine on the edge of Paris. The full moon reflected off the water as the rowers took their seats in the boats and waited patiently in the darkness. At exactly 7:00 AM, the horn sounded and the oars of 220 sculls began to churn the water. Overhead, on the Pont de Sèvres, fireworks heralded the start of our 28 kilometre journey, la Traversée de Paris et des Hauts-de-Seine, a row through Paris. The Crew Convenes My Toronto crew and I had begun our tour experience the day before, convening at le MiniPalais…
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Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte: High Crimes & Misdemeanours – Part 2
The notorious history of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte continued to reveal itself as we roamed its historic halls. For in the basement, not only did we find the kitchens and servants’ dining room, we also came upon an unexpected character. The Man in the Iron Mask There before us, sitting in a small staircase, was a likeness of The Man in the Iron Mask. Our guide informed us that this iconic figure had two connections to Vaux-le-Vicomte. For he too had been confined at Pignerol prison at the same time as Nicolas Fouquet, the high flying creator of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. In fact, he served as Fouquet’s valet for a time.…
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Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte: High Crimes & Misdemeanours – Part 1
When I departed Paris early one autumn morning on a bus tour of two of France’s most famous châteaux, little did I know that I would soon be immersed in the high crimes and misdemeanours of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. This was the first of the châteaux that we visited that day. And the drama began to reveal itself to us immediately upon our arrival. Burglary at Dawn We approached this magnificent château on foot, passing its imposing gate and crossing the bridge over its moat. No sooner had we passed over the threshold beneath the grand façade, than our guide informed us that the current owners had been burgled early…
