Palau de Miravet: A House of Art and Music

Not far from the coast, in the Tarragona region of northwestern Spain, sits the idyllic town of Miravet. And here, overlooking the Ebro river, lies a most wonderful vacation home, the fantastical Palau de Miravet. I had the great joy of spending two nights here in the spring of 2019 while adventure rowing down the Ebro. And from the river is the best way to first approach this charming house. For its pale blue facade shines out amongst its sand-coloured neighbours like a beacon welcoming you home.After docking our sculls at the embarcadero, my fellow rowers and I made our way along the narrow, stone-paved street to Palau de Miravet. Upon arriving, we received the warmest of welcomes from co-owner Aurelio, who helped us with our luggage.

Trompe L’œil

And, as we stepped under the weathered, timber-beamed porch and into the main entrance, we were greeted by a trio of trompe l’œil sparrows floating among grapevines overhead. As I was about to discover, this stunning piece of art was just the first many that lay within the walls of the guest house. And, during my forthcoming visit to Barcelona, I would further discover that this painting technique was also deployed by its most famous architect, Antoni Gaudí.

For the meantime, though, it drew us in, leading us to the most incredible staircase. I was first captivated by its charming tiled flooring and the brass acorn mounted atop the newel post. Then, the hand-painted boarder and time-polished banister.

Joaquim Mir

Next, as we arrived at a trompé l’œil framed door on the second level, swirls of white drew my eyes heavenward.

Before me appeared a flock of cherubs hovering above a portrait. This was my first glimpse of the famous Spanish artist that had inspired this flourish of creativity, Joaquim Mir. And on the next landing, a boating scene, apt for our crew, revealed itself.

Eclectic Ceramics

After this breath-taking ascendance, we entered our living quarters and were greeted by even more Spanish charms. From the bowl of fresh cherries to the eclectic array of ceramics, all was arrayed to provide a welcoming space.

Saint Sebastian

One of our apartments sported a whimsical fireplace. Next to it was mounted a small, Christian statue. Our host confirmed that this was a statue of Saint Sebastian, as indicated by the arrows at its base. He went on to say that Sebastian is viewed as the protector of the house and, that the original version of this statue was thrown in the river during the Spanish Civil War, along with much of the furniture.

Painterly Views

This artistic house also boasts amazing views that any painter would love to imitate. And a balcony that even Juliette would be envious of! These vistas are not limited to the exterior however, as replicas of some of Joaquin Mir’s local, Modernista landscapes are housed within.

Miravet by Joaquim Mir

Knights Templar

In time, Aurelio shared some of the history of this wonderful house with us. Apparently it was originally owned by the head of the Knights Templar who had built the Castell de Miravet on the hill above. Its previous occupants were two elderly women who lost all in the 2008 financial crisis. So Aurelio and his partner, Joachim, made a deal with them. They would purchase the house and begin renovations while permitting the women to live out the remainder of their years in it.

A House of Art and Music

And so they began their journey of reviving this historic property. Part of a small, international group of local musicians and artists, their vision is to bring the house back to life with art and music. And Joachim was busy renovating the top floor while we were there.

I have no doubt that they will achieve their goal.

Palau de Miravet  Carrer del Palau, 34, 43747 Miravet, Tarragona, Spain