Josephine at Malmaison: Retreat of an Empress

The Christmas season is over now. However, memories of my Parisian Christmas visit still linger. We are currently being blessed with a mild streak of weather and it has transported me back to a similar pleasant, sunny afternoon I spent exploring the retreat of Empress Josephine at Malmaison that Boxing Day.

In the Footsteps of Royalty

I had made my way from the heart of Paris to its western edge and the suburb of Rueil-Malmaison by Metro and bus. I then strolled along le Chemin Joséphine et Napoléon Bonaparte. Round brass markings bearing the bee emblem of the Emperor guided my way to the regal Château de Malmaison. Cone-shaped topiaries, along with royal blue plant boxes that reflected the colour of the slate roof, lined its driveway, then lead me to its front entrance.

A Love Story

I had explored the history of the Empress years earlier through the captivating read The Josephine B. Trilogy by Canadian novelist Sandra Gulland. And now I was eager to step into the life of Josephine at Malmaison. It was through these books that I discovered that she had purchased the château in 1799 for herself and her second husband, Napoleon Bonaparte I, as a retreat from the hustle and bustle of Paris, while he was off fighting in Egypt and Syria. She then went on to spend a fortune renovating their new home as it was in need of major refurbishment.

The life of Josephine and Napoleon is one of the eternally tragic love stories. While it took her a while to warm up to him, Napoleon was eternally passionate about Josephine. And they lived a tumultuous life together until their divorce in 1810 due to her inability to produce an heir. At this point, Malmaison became Josephine’s permanent home and a retreat from society.

Empress Rouge

And what a retreat is was! Josephine created a stunning array of rooms. Her bedroom, designed in the shape of a tent, was my favourite. It is wrapped in rich reds and highlighted with gold. And she filled it with swans, her favourite creature. The bed itself is extraordinary. A gilt frame with a headboard flanked by swans is crowned by the imperial eagle resting atop an elegant canopy.  And her chairs are divine! This time, white swans decorate these luxuriously upholstered, gilt pieces.

The Finer Things

On display as well were more intimate details of Josephine’s life. From toiletries to a salts flask to her sewing kit, they provide a glimpse into her everyday life. And the details are incredible. The glass flask is wrapped in an intricately sculpted gold casing while the sewing implements are crafted from ivory and gold.

Josephine went on to fill the rest of the château with luxuries as well. Her imperial Sèvres porcelain dining service was one of them. And it is on display in all of its glory.

I found that this somewhat humble winter scene portrayed on a cup and saucer to be a reflection of the château itself. For, while this royal abode bears a majestic countenance, there is also an intimate sense of warmth and comfort within. And I imagine that this is a wonderful reflection of the happiness experienced by Josephine at Malmaison.

Now, take a peak into Josephine’s closet in my post Josephine at Malmaison: An Imperial Wardrobe.

Musée National du Château de Malmaison  Avenue du Château de la Malmaison, 92500 Rueil-Malmaison, France

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