Celebrating Bastille Day in Paris

A year ago, my niece Julia and I were in France looking forward to celebrating Bastille Day in Paris. July 14th or le Quatorze juillet is officially known as la Fête nationale. This day, the biggest in France, commemorates the ‘Storming of the Bastille’ which took place on July 14th, 1789. It was on that day, during the French Revolution, when commoners rose up against l’Ancien Régime – the Old Regime. Their goal: to take control of la Bastille, one of Paris’ most notorious prisons. As a result, July 14th has become a celebration of the end of the oppressive French feudal system.

A Celebration of Liberty

The Bastille prison was destroyed in 1790. Then, in 1792, the area it had occupied was turned into Place de la Bastille. The July Column was constructed in the centre of la Place at the direction of King Louis-Philippe I in commemoration of the subsequent July 1830 revolution. And it still stands today. The Column is crowned by Auguste Dumont’s beautiful gilded, bronze sculpture la Génie de la Liberté – The Spirit of Freedom. This allegorical statue brandishes a torch representing civilization in its right hand and the broken chain of despotism in its left. And, as I discovered during one of my strolls through the Louvre, its beauty and symbolism can be appreciated up close in the half-sized replica housed there. Thus, la Bastille became a square celebrating liberté – liberty.

Given the importance of Bastille Day to France, it is celebrated throughout the country with military parades, fireworks, concerts, and balls. In Paris, this translates to a huge military parade down the Champs-Élysées, fireworks over the Eiffel Tower, and two nights of balls at each of the fire stations which are decorated with blue, white and red bunting.

Festive Champs-Élysées

Julia and I got our first glimpses of Bastille Day preparations as we made our way down the Champs-Élysées after a visit to the Arc de Triomphe on the 12th. Here we were greeted by le bleu, blanc et rouge – the blue, white and red. Not only was it decorating the street, but also some of the gorgeous 19th-century buildings lining it. We also came across some window dressers decorating the shop window of French ballet shoe company, Repetto, with bleu, blanc et rouge tutus. So French!

The Arc de Triomphe set against a blue sky with puffy white clouds: L'Abeille Française

An ornate 18th-century building on the Champs Élysées decorated with French flags for Bastille Day: L'Abeille Française

Repetto shop window dressers on the Champs Élysées decorating the window with blue, white & red tutus for Bastille Day: L'Abeille Française

Le Bleu, Blanc et Rouge

A while later, strolling alongside the Seine, we were taken by surprise by the sound of jets flying overhead. Seeing le bleu, blanc et rouge streaming behind the plane formation, we quickly realized that this was the French Air Force aerobatic team practising for the big day. We just happened to be in the right place at the right time. For we caught sight of them as they flew over the Pont Alexandre III and around the Eiffel Tower after coming down the Champs-Élysées. It was then that we realized that we had also heard them the day before while visiting the wonderful secret garden of Hôtel Dieu.

Le bleu, blanc et rouge were prevalent for another reason that Parisian July. For France had just made it to the finals of the Men’s World Cup of soccer. And they were scheduled to play their last game on July 15th. So the French flag appeared to us in a variety of unique ways over that celebratory weekend. This included on the jars of Nutella at a Montmarte crêpe café. And in a complimentary liqueur at the elegant new Café Pouchkine in Place de la Madeleine.

Military Might

On the morning of Bastille Day, Julia and I, along with thousands of others, made another visit to the Champs-Élysées. We were on our way to see the grand military parade. Due to security restrictions, the crowds were kept one street back from the Avenue. So our view was somewhat limited. We did see a few military and fire fighting vehicles at the Arc de Triomphe though.

And plenty of le bleu, blanc et rouge overhead.

Eiffel Tower Climax

Having seen what we could of the parade, we went in search of an open Metro station. Those along the Champs-Élysées were closed for the day. So it was at Madeleine before we found one that was accessible. Julia was headed back to our apartment for a rest and I to the Ritz for a class in Baking French Classics. I had some time before my lesson started so I decided to enjoy a light lunch at The Ritz first. We reconnected later that day and headed to the Champs de Mars. Our goal: to top off our day of celebrations with fireworks over la tour Eiffel – the Eiffel Tower. It was wonderful to watch the transformation of the tower as day turned to dusk.

And then, to see it come to life with an exuberance of colour synchronized to music was absolutely thrilling! An exciting climax to a festive Bastille Day in Paris.