Adventure Rowing Down the Ebro: Miravet

The beautiful spring weather we’re currently experiencing takes me back to the rowing tour of Spain’s Ebro River that I completed at this time of year in 2019. And looking back at these photos of one of my last pre-pandemic journeys brings a tear to my eye. Our small, but hardy, group of avid rowers had already rowed over the Sunken Village of Fayón, taken the Pilgrimage to Fontcalda and successfully navigated le Mar de Aragon. And, having departed Massaluca, we were now on our way to the charming town of Miravet in the province of Tarragona.

Rowing Down a Lazy River

After experiencing some challenging conditions on a couple of our previous days on the water, I think we were all relieved to be experiencing an easy row this day. For the river had narrowed significantly. And so, for much of the afternoon, we were carried along by a gentle current. Rowing was almost optional. Our biggest challenge for the day was navigating the numerous buoys along our route. We arrived at our destination in a few short hours. And the sun-bleached houses perched along the Miravet waterfront greeted us. The pale blue Palau de Miravet was to be my charming home for the next two nights.

And the view from my spacious suite would be just as stunning as the one from the river.

Quiet Beauty

An evening stroll through the narrow streets of Miravet’s Cap de la Vila, its historic centre, revealed more delights. From a flower-adorned patio overlooking the Ebro to a stone olive press in a quiet corner and Juliet-balconies, this sleepy town kept revealing its quiet beauty. And its architectural gems. As the elevation rose, what had been vehicle-passable streets turned to narrow pedestrian pathways. Before long, I was walking beneath the arch of a former town gate. And out of nowhere, a relic of Islamic history appeared. Backing on to the Old Church, this well-preserved stone archway was once the entrance to the local Muslim mosque.

Templar Temples

My goal that evening was to reach the fortress at the peek of the summit. And on the way, stop in at the Old Church. As I turned a corner, the curved walls of the bell tower rose above me. This Baroque Christian chapel was built in the 16th- and 17th-centuries on the site of a former mosque. And its altar is a 12th-century stone table that was made by the Templars for the castle above. Bombed during the Spanish Civil War, this historic edifice still stands intact. A new church replaced it after the war and this building was later turned into a cultural centre. It was closed when I arrived so I decided to see if I could catch a glimpse of the interior by pushing my camera lens up against its iron keyhole.

Satisfied, I continued my ascent. As I climbed, the stone-tiled pathway eventually gave way to a narrow, gravel trail and wild poppies clung to the steep, rocky hillside. Taking a look over my shoulder, I captured one of my favourite views of this Spanish town. And, after a little more effort, I arrived at the walls of Castel de Miravet – Miravet Castle. Rising an imposing 80 metres high, this 12th-century fortress was built on the remains of a Moorish fortress. This continued the strategic use of this site, which dates back to prehistoric times. The Templars of Miravet constructed their fortress using military architectural designs imported from the Holy Land. Upon completion, Castel de Miravet would become the centre of the Templar province of Catalonia and Aragon.

Spanish Treasures

As well as taking in these amazing sights, our time in Miravet would also offer us the opportunity to explore a Cathedral of Wine, the ruins of a monastery and, what felt like, the top of the world.

Returning to the Ebro

With these wonderful memories under our belts, it was time once more to head out on the river. As we prepared to depart though, we caught sight of another group of river rats coming our way. It became apparent as they approached, that they were paddlers, rather than rowers. Our host at Palau de Miravet told us that the Ebro sees very little recreational boating and that efforts are under way to remedy that. It appeared that this group of young kayakers were the result of that effort. I imagine these students were quite amused when one of their instructors tipped their boat and required assistance re-boarding it at the foot of the walls of Miravet’s old mill. With our boat trailer and van dropped off at our take-out point, it was time for us to depart. It was my turn to travel by car that day. So, my driving partner, Geneviève, and I waved our fellow rowers goodbye, stopped by the bakery to pick up some bread, then headed out to meet up with them at our designated lunch spot.